In Pakistan I live in Lahore (Undroon
Shehar/Old City) to be more precise in Mochi Darwaza/Gate. I spent quite a lot of time
there so the place has grown on me. Life isn't stressful (as long as you stay away from
certain undesirables) and the localities good, although some people would like to differ
on that view. I know who you are and the budron awaits you!
Mochi Gate is quite a historical place, it has been named in honour of Moti a
Hindu guard of the gate during the Mughal era, who guarded and looked after the gate all
his life. Later on the name was distorted and became Mochi. If you enter it through the
main entrance which is right opposite Gawalmandi and carry on through the bazaar. On your
right hand will be Mochi Baagh, with its famous stage. At Mochi Baagh all
the famous leaders of their times have delivered speeches to the masses including Allama
Iqbal, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, Liaqut Ali Khan, Z.A.Bhutto. Unless a politician does not
manage to deliver a speech to a packed Mochi Baagh he/she is not considered important.
Some politicians have had to hire people to come to their speeches to make an impression
at Mochi Gate :)
If you walk straight on, though firstly on your right you will find the mazaar of
Pir Muradia a local holy man. People pray fatiha there and drink water from the subeel.
The first mosque (which is only a few paces ahead at the junction) you will find in the
Bazaar is more than 350 years old. If you turn left from the mosque, you will reach
Barfkhana Chowk (Iceplace Chowk), turning left or going straight ahead will take you to
Sha-almi Darwaza.
However If you delve straight on further into the Bazaar via Lal Khuu, from the
Mughal Mosque, you will get to see Rafiq Sweet house and Fazal Sweet House, two of
Lahore's most famous Mithai Makers. Funnily enough Rafiq the proprietor of Rafiq Sweet
house was the student of Fazal, the founder of Fazal Sweet House.
Further on into Mochi gate via Laal Khuu you will see the famous kite market
and also see the famous Saeein's Kebab shop on your right. Eventually you will come to
Chowk Nawab Sahib/Chowk Pakistan. Though commonly known as Chowk Nawaab Sahib, the Chowk
is also known in history as Chowk Pakistan, because this is where one the the first Muslim
League Offices was opened. Throughout the Independence movement, Mochi gate was an
important place for the Muslims since Mochi Gate was a Muslim majority area. My elders
tell me of stories when the Hindus of Sha-almi gate used to or tried to kill any Muslim
that passed through Sha-almi. Not exactly ideal living conditions then I suppose.
On the left hand of Chowk Nawaab Sahib there is Mohalla Shian, this is one of the
main localities of the Shia Muslims of Lahore. Before Lahore expanded vastly as it has,
Mochi gate used to be the most influential areas of the Shias. Also if I am right, this
used to be the only place the Horse of Imam Hussain used to pass through. In Mochi Gate
there are at my estimate about three quite well-known and famous Imambargahs. Being a
Sunni Muslim though I haven't yet been in one yet, though I did try to go into one the
last time I was in Pakistan. The gunman's suspicious look at me, deterred me from going
inside though :(
From Chowk Nawab Sahib if you go straight on and turn left at the junction
through the chowk, you will reach Kashmiri Bazaar. Lahore's famous shopping bazaar for
women. However if you turn right at the Chowk, you will come into Akbari Mandi. Famous for
it's spice-shops and soap shops. In Chowk Nawab Sahib try the fish prepared by the shop in
the Chowk, some people prefer his fish to that of Gawalmandi's, maybe you will as well. I
thought his fish was better. The last time I brought fish from him, his rates were Rs
200/kg of fish. I don't know what the rate is now.
I have only one picture of my house ever since it was built more
than a decade ago. Shows how lazy I am? No, but it shows that we take pictures of
everything in the world but sometimes forget to acknowledge one of Allah's greatest gifts
to us i.e. our houses. I wish I had more pictures of Mochi Gate now since it has changed
vastly now. The area on the right of my house now stands witness to a big house and most
of the old houses there are being demolished. Most of the buildings have changed beyond
recognition (e.g a two storey house is converted into a five storey house) and guess what
even some of my neighbours have left the vicinity.
I put it all down to the mass commercialisation of Old Lahore (i.e. Sha-Almi
gate's example), all the people are becoming obsessed with money and showing off (I Guess
I will not be popular with the people from Mochi who have read this, when I go back).
Though another main reason could be the ever-increasing pollution in Mochi Gate and
generally the whole of Old Lahore. However Mochi gate has the added "Attraction"
of a gunda nalla/sewage lake. Anyway whatever Mochi is like I love it because I grew up
there.
I went to Pakistan in December 98 and in general Lahore is becoming quite a good
place to live in. With lots of good shopping stores, and great computer places e.g. Hafeez
Centre. So when I came back to London, no matter how well developed it is or how modern it
is, in my view it can never be as good as Lahore. For god's sake I even thought London's
streets were a bit too clean (?????? Someone get me a doctor please!!!!!).
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